Help & Resources

1. What are the best conditions for growing mango trees?

Answer:

Mango trees thrive in tropical and subtropical climates with temperatures ranging from 24°C to 30°C (75°F to 86°F). They require well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5. Mango trees prefer full sun and should be planted in a location where they receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. They also need protection from strong winds and frost, as these conditions can damage the trees.

2. How often should I water my mango tree?

Answer:

Young mango trees should be watered regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. During the first year, water the tree every 2-3 days. Once established, mango trees are more drought-tolerant and should be watered deeply every 1-2 weeks. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so ensure the soil has good drainage. Reduce watering during the winter months when the tree is dormant.

3. When and how should I fertilize my mango tree?

Answer:

Fertilize young mango trees every 1-2 months during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer that includes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Once the tree begins to bear fruit, typically after 3-5 years, apply a high-potassium fertilizer three times a year: after flowering, after fruit set, and after harvesting. Avoid over-fertilization, as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.

4. How can I protect my mango tree from pests and diseases?

Answer:

Common pests that affect mango trees include aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects. Diseases such as anthracnose and powdery mildew can also pose problems. To protect your mango tree:

- Regularly inspect the tree for signs of pests and diseases.

- Use neem oil or insecticidal soap to control pests.

- Prune the tree to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal infections.

- Apply a copper-based fungicide during the flowering period to prevent anthracnose.

- Keep the area around the tree free of fallen leaves and debris, which can harbor pests and diseases.

5. When is the best time to harvest mangoes, and how can I tell if they are ripe?

Answer:

The best time to harvest mangoes is when they have reached full size and have begun to change color, depending on the variety. Signs of ripeness include a slight give when gently squeezed, a sweet aroma near the stem, and a change in color from green to yellow, red, or orange. It's important to pick the fruit before it becomes overripe and falls off the tree. Mangoes will continue to ripen after being harvested, so they can be picked when they are mature but still firm.

Q: What varieties should I plant?

A: The varieties you choose will depend on the growing region and your target market. You may want to plant varieties from different harvesting times or an early, mid and late season variety.

Q: Should I use grafted plants or seedlings?

A: Kensington Pride can be grown from seed or grafted. Most other varieties (Kent, Palmer and Keitt) need to be grafted because they do not grow true-to-type from seed. Grafted plants produce earlier, are less vigorous and have a more uniform production than plants grown from seed.

Q: What tree spacings should I use?

A: Tree spacings will depend on variety and how you will prune and manage your mature trees. Varieties such as Keitt and Palmer can be planted closer than more vigorous types such as Kensington Pride. If you plan to prune your trees as a hedgerow, they can be planted closer within the row. Row spacing should allow easy access for machinery when trees reach full maturity.

Q: How long before my trees bear fruit?

A: Grafted trees will settle into a cropping pattern by the third year after planting and reach peak production in six to eight years. Seedling trees take a year longer to come into production.

Q: Should I artificially ripen mangoes?

A: Mangoes are generally harvested in a mature but still firm, green state. Ethylene gas can be used to trigger ripening of fruit, bringing on uniform colouring and ripening. The results from gassing depend on critical temperature management during and after ethylene treatment. Your decision on whether to gas fruit or not should be made in consultation with your agent/wholesaler because ripened fruit has a shorter storage life and will need to move quickly through the market chain.

Q: Do mangoes need refrigeration?

A: Fruit should be cooled within 48 hours of harvest to prolong storage life, maximise fruit quality and improve colour development. Uncooled fruit tends to ripen irregularly and is more prone to post-harvest diseases.

Q: What temperature should mangoe be stored at?

A: Mangoes ripen evenly between 18° and 22°C. Hard green mangoes can be stored at 13°C until they start to ripen, and ripe fruit can be cooled to 5°C for about four days.

Q: Do I need to dip mangoes?

A: Fruit sold to areas free of fruit fly must be treated according to the fruit fly certification agreement in place for that destination. This will include dipping or a post-harvest spray with an insecticide in addition to your pre-harvest fruit fly control program. Treatment for post-harvest diseases is recommended, though it is not compulsory.

Q: Why are the  flowers on my mango tree turning black?

A: The fungal disease anthracnose is the most common cause of flowers turning black. The symptoms are small black spots developing on the flowers, stalks and small fruit. Preventative sprays can reduce the risk of infection. Fruitspotting bugs and bacterial flower disease also cause black spots on the inflorescence.

Q: How do I control bacterial black spot?

A: Bacterial black spot invades young leaves and fruit mainly through surface damage caused by wind. Windbreaks reduce wind damage to trees and thus help to control infection. A sustained regular spray program using a recommended fungicide will manage the disease.

Q: Why are the leaves on my mango tree going brown?

A: Leaves turn brown for many reasons but the main cause is the disease anthracnose. Young leaves are particularly susceptible to infection and it is worse in wet conditions. If it is mainly the tips of the leaves turning brown, it is probably fertiliser burn or saline irrigation water. Leafminers tunnelling through leaves can also cause leaves to turn brown.

Q: Why is my new growth wilting?

A: Two insects are the most likely cause of new growth wilting:

    The fruitspotting bug sucks sap from new growth, which causes grooves along the length of the new stems, causing them to wilt.
    The mango tipborer hollows out the inside of new stems, causing more severe wilting than the fruitspotting bug. If you cut the stem lengthwise, you will find that it is hollowed out, often with a small caterpillar inside.

Q: Why do some fruit never get bigger than an egg?

A: Egg-sized fruit are the result of poor pollination caused by cool night temperatures during flowering. Some of the fruit fall off and others will develop to egg-size. These fruit are commonly called nubbins. If you cut them open, you will find there is no seed.

Q: Why are my fruit splitting?

A: The main reason for fruit splitting is infection by bacterial black spot.

Q: There is a hollow in the fruit. What is that?

A: A hollow in the fruit is an occasional problem in Kensington Pride and some other varieties. The hollow develops at the top of the fruit where it is connected to the stem, and is known as stem-end cavity. It is related to a nutritional imbalance in the tree and to fruit hanging on the tree for too long.

Q: Why do my mangoes stay green?

A: Incorrect ripening practices and high nitrogen levels in the tree are the most common causes of mangoes staying green when ripe. More information

Q: How do I avoid skin browning?

A: Incorrect harvesting and postharvest handling practices cause skin browning. You need to manage your system to minimise skin damage from sap contamination, bumping, dirt, wetness and heat.

Q: Do I have to spray my mangoes?

A: Many pests and disorders attack mangoes. They include the diseases bacterial black spot and anthracnose and the pests fruit fly, mango scale and fruitspotting bug. Most growers control these with a regular spray program. Completely organic production is only possible if you grow your trees in an area that is not prone to wet weather during fruiting and is free of fruit fly.

Q: Is my farm suitable for growing mangoes?

A: Mangoes prefer a frost-free climate with a cool dry winter. They will grow on a wide range of soils but prefer light, well-drained soil of reasonably low fertility. Slopes should not be too steep to allow safe machinery access. You will need about 6 ML of water per hectare per year.

Q: How can I protect my trees from frost?

A: The best way to protect trees is to grow them on frost-free land. You can protect young trees by wrapping their trunks in sisalation or similar insulating material for their first winter. Another method is to irrigate for an hour or two until sunrise, just before frost settling.

Q: Should I hedgerow my new plantings?

A: Hedgerowing will depend on tree spacing. Tree spacings of less than 4 m lend themselves well to hedging as opposed to managing wider spaced individual trees.

Q: How tall should I let my trees grow?

A: For efficient harvesting and effective spray coverage keep trees less than 4.5 m high.

Q: How and when do I prune?

A: Young mango trees should be pruned every one to two flushes to maximise branching and fruiting terminals. When trees reach bearing age, prune them each year to maintain size, thin out the canopy and remove dead wood. Prune by hand with secateurs or machine prune. The main pruning is done after harvest.

Q: When should I fertilise my trees?

A: In bearing trees, most fertiliser is applied after harvest. The rest is applied at flowering and early fruit growth. Young trees require regular fertilising every two to three months to encourage continuous, strong growth.

Q: How much fertiliser should I use?

A: The amount of fertiliser you use will depend on soil type, tree size and cropping history. Always do a leaf and soil analysis before planning your fertiliser program.

Q: How much gypsum do I need and how often should I apply it?

A: Gypsum supplies additional calcium to the plant without changing the pH of the soil. The normal application rate is about 5 t/ha or 500 g/sq.m. Gypsum is normally applied soon after harvest, and before flowering.

Q: How much water do my mangoes need, and when?

A: Mangoes are a deep-rooted crop and a mature tree needs a large volume of water. The amount of water required depends on the size of the tree and the time of the year. An orchard's water requirements can exceed 6 ML/ha a year. At peak demand, from fruit set to harvest, a mature tree may need over 2000 L per week.

Q: Why don´t my trees flower?

A: Mango trees are sensitive to climatic conditions at flower initiation. They need a dormant period in winter to initiate flowering. Poor flowering can also result from reduced carbohydrate reserves in the tree from a very heavy crop the previous season, or from late pruning.

Q: Why do my trees flower but not set fruit?

A: Poor fruit set can be caused by poor pollination due to cold weather at flowering, or fungal diseases such as anthracnose in the flowers. There are also several insects that eat the flowers.

Q: My trees are flowering early when the nights are cold. What should I do?

A: Early flowering at this time is difficult to manage. Flowers can be cut off as long as the weather stays cool. Healthy trees will produce new flowers in about six weeks. Remember to cut off just the flower panicle. There is a risk that late flower removal can result in the production of a leaf flush rather than flowers as the weather gets warmer.

Q: Why are my fruit dropping off?

A: Mango flowers will set many more fruit then the tree can hold and will have significant fruit drop. Other reasons for fruit falling off include water stress, poor pollination, disease and insect attack.

Q: When are my mangoes ready to pick?

A: Fruit that is ready for harvest should have a minimum dry matter of 14% and should be well filled at the beak and shoulders. When the fruit is cut open, the internal flesh is a uniform pale yellow. The internal flesh of immature fruit is white.